The Hidden Cost of Cheap Windows

 

 

During the recession, I worked with a lot of investors who bought old duplexes.Many were early 1900s buildings with original trim, and drafty windows that had seen more Minnesota winters than any of us care to count.

The investor would inevitably choose the cheapest replacement windows available, install them fast, and feel very proud of the savings.

One year later?

Plastic over the windows.The tenants were cold. The investor was annoyed. And the “new” windows were already ventilating the bedroom.

But the problem is not always the window.

Old double-hung windows had weight pockets on each side for the rope-and-pulley system. When replacement windows are installed, those cavities need to be properly insulated and sealed. If they aren’t, cold air fills the new window.

Translation: you paid for glass. You got a wind tunnel.

This is why “size and price” is not a window strategy.

A Home Depot window rep once told me, “Lady, nobody cares. They just want size and price.”

A quality window should be chosen for your climate, not just your opening. Minnesota is not Arizona. A good northern-climate window needs to help keep heat inside, manage condensation, reduce drafts, and still let in natural light.

When you compare windows, look for the ENERGY STAR label and the NFRC label. NFRC stands for National Fenestration Rating Council, which sounds like a group of people who meet in robes to discuss glass, but it’s actually the organization to standardize window performance ratings.

Here’s what to look for:

U-Factor This measures how well the window keeps heat from escaping. Lower is better. In Minnesota, this matters. A lot. Think of it as the “how warm will I be in January?” number.

Solar Heat Gain Coefficient This tells you how much solar heat comes through the glass. Lower numbers block more heat. In hot climates, that’s a big deal. In northern climates, you still want the right balance because winter sun can be your friend.

Visible Transmittance This measures how much natural light comes through. Higher means more daylight. Nobody wants a cave unless they’re storing wine or avoiding relatives.

Air Leakage This measures how much air can pass through the window unit. Lower is better. No wind whistling through the living room during a February cold snap.

Condensation Resistance Not always the first number buyers ask about, but in Minnesota, it matters. Better windows help reduce condensation, which protects comfort, finishes, and indoor air quality.

And please remember: even a great window can perform badly if it is installed poorly.

That includes flashing, air sealing, insulation around the frame, and following manufacturer instructions. Some window companies require their own installers because they know the truth: bad installation makes good windows look guilty.

I’ve seen this in new construction too. One buyer had an inspection on a brand-new home and the inspector found an entire wall of windows leaking air when closed. The windows weren’t necessarily bad. The installation was.

Also, the company with the loudest ads is not automatically the best window. You're  paying for the marketing.

Energy-efficient windows pays you back in quieter rooms, lower utility bills, less condensation, better comfort, and fewer “why is there plastic on my window?” moments.

Some local utility and city rebate programs may still be available depending on where you live and who provides your energy.

Before you buy, check rebates, compare NFRC labels, ask who is installing, and make sure the window is rated for the right climate.

Cheap windows are only cheap once. Bad windows charge rent every winter.

Helpful resource: https://www.energystar.gov/products/res_windows_doors_skylights